4/30/2024 0 Comments Mcnichols bar grating load tablesMotor stringers were done a few years ago. Then again the word boat is actually not a word but an anagram. That is what that product is made for so if you want and you have built a nice level grid you can use it. You starboard is good for the physical floor. That is how MasterCraft is building theirs (they actually run the entire rear engine bearing stringer upper of steel in the back, since their boats deal with incredible forces from skiing/wake boarding.) If you want to get fancy and real strong on top of those use a piece of steel so you have metal to bolt your engine mounts. Marine grade stuff should last you a good long time as long as you seal it in fiberglass. Then cause delamination.Īs far as the stringers where the motor will sit you will need to go marine grade plywood. You will hold water and thus weight and future corrosion. I can't tell by your drawing but it looks like you are sealing the bottom of the hull with the stringer grid. Make sure you leave room at the bottom for water drainage. Make sure to get a resin that won't dissolve it. Won't absorb water and you can laminate it in fiberglass. You should be able to pick it up in sheets at your local hardware store, it's blue. I'm not talking about $4000 worth of carbon fiber matrix, but assuming that regular lumber would be about $150 I don't mind dropping $400 or so on a good floor that I don't have to worry about. I gotta think there is some extruded structural foam or plastic out there that would do the job. So - if I do that starboard type stuff for the framework, what can I put on it for flooring that A) won't rot, B) is stiff enough to mount things like pedestal seats, and C) doesn't weigh a ton. Since sprayed-on liners are so expensive I don't want to have to do it every time. But I plan on doing something different with the floor, maybe colored rhino liner. That would be great if I was going to carpet it when it rotted I could just pull up the carpet and replace the plywood. I can do the framework with the starboard stuff so it won't rot, but I need ideas for the flooring itself.įirst thought was plain old marine plywood. ![]() ![]() Here is the floor as it is now and I drew in an idea for supports. ![]() So, until I get enough thickness to it it will be too heavy. I know about the product "starboard" which is a marine lumber replacement, but there are two problems with it: 1) its heavy and 2) its not load-bearing. I posted on my favorite trusty baja forum and it seems like its dead over there. The typical markets for Heavy Duty Steel grating include highway bridge decks, ramps, airports, bus and truck terminals, industrial flooring and trenches.Its getting to be that time. A serrated surface and SlipNOT® slip resistance coating is also available. Galvanizing is an option and stainless steel can also be provided for highly corrosive applications. PMWI's Heavy Duty Welded Steel Grating is available in 5 different spacings (15, 19, 22, 30 and 38-Space), 4 bearing bar thicknesses, and various depths ranging from 1" to 6". Our Heavy Duty Welded Steel (W Series) grating meets the demanding vehicular loading requirements up to H-25 loading as defined by the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) Standard Specifications for Highway Bridges. The main bearing bars are slotted and assembled with cross bars that are welded with one fillet weld at every bearing bar/cross bar joint. Heavy Duty Welded Carbon Steel Grating is by far the most popular choice where heavy static or rolling loads are encountered and high strength is required.
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